Changsha: The Nightlife

The nightclubs in Changsha have a reputation in China for... well, if you love crowds, raucous enthusiasm, drinking, smoking, great sound systems and DJs, dancing, and entertainment galore, you will love clubbing in Changsha. Doesn't matter if it's a Tuesday night or a Saturday night, the places are packed, and things don't cool down until 3AM or so. My first evening was Glamour Bar, wow, like a 3 ring circus on steroids... exotic dancers, various MCs presiding over vocal contests and comedic "game shows" (with volunteers taken from the crowd), BMX bike exhibitions, burlesque shows, and a techno dance bar in room 2. The most fun I'd had in years, and friendly doesn't begin to describe the locals. I arrived with my date at 9 and we worked our way up to the edge of an entertainment runway (leading from the stage to the bar). Moments later some guy stuck a smoke in my mouth, his friend lit it, and another handed me a fresh cold bottle of beer. Perhaps I was a welcome novelty, likely being the only American within miles... but the hospitality is genuine, and everybody in the club was all smiles, all night long.

An infectious camaraderie flows in crescendos and waves at Soho Bar as well (of which there are several all across China). On the Thursday night I was there it was standing room only, with the DJ spinning a variety of cutting edge American, British, and Chinese remixes. After an hour or so the lights suddenly dimmed and a sexy Chinese pop star emerged in the crowd to sing a few hits from her new album. She wandered from table to table with her wireless microphone and bodyguards. And an hour later, a male counterpart did the same. Just an average night out in Changsha, minimal cover charge.

The Chinese definitely like to cut it loose. I drank sweet green tea with whiskey on ice... damn good, give it a try sometime. While I was at Soho Bar two couples from the night before at Glamour Bar noticed me and came up to say hello. See? Friendly. Would that happen here in the states? Not as likely. The third night out was a small place, low key, but the bartender did magic tricks for me and my date. 5 stars for Changsha nightlife.

Changsha: Yuelu Academy

Tucked into the lush forested base of Yuelu Mountain, near the west bank of the Xiang River in Changsha, is an amazing school with over one thousand years of history... Yuelu Academy, a must-visit for any China traveler interested in capturing ancient essences. Now part of Hunan University, the expansive and architecturally rich school is truly a sight to behold. Endless courtyards, gates, lecture and teaching halls, a library, music room (with daily performances), temples, pavilions, verandas, galleries, pools and gardens... make sure your camera battery is fully charged.

I arrived on a warm sunny morning in late April, with birds singing and a light breeze keeping me comfortable. As I walked through the grounds, with all their intricate detailing, it was easy to imagine robed scholars of the past strolling by. This was the traditional China I had hoped to find before I had ever booked my very first flight, and I could understand why so many Hunan University students were relaxing or studying there. Perhaps more beautiful than Yuelu Academy architecture and gardens are the towering trees blanketing the area, as if painted skillfully by master artisans. The peaceful, contemplative ambience was incredible, and I didn't want to leave.

I wanted to include more photos, but I think just a little tease is best. A modest 30 yuan entrance fee matches the lack of overcommercialized noise that come with some of China's famous tourist destinations. Behind the Academy you can catch a bus or tram to the top of Yuelu Mountain, where you'll find many locals and university students enjoying the views of Changsha far below and across the river (before hiking back down two scenic roadways). Food and beverages are available up top and at various stops along the way down... highlights are Aiwan Pavilion and Lushan Temple.